MASS WITH THE MAYANS...SUNDAY IN TICUL

Leaving Merida (Yucatan) on a hot and steamy October day, were driving south out of the city heading to a somewhat remote town of Ticul. Located 82 kilometers from Merida, it’s principally known for it’s locally made shoes, leather goods, a large Ex-Convent, which now serves as a Catholic church and it’s excellent collection of Mayan deities, found dotting the periphery of the church.

People leaving the Church after Sunday Mass

The trip from Merida takes approximately one and a half hours , is an easy drive through flat shrub jungle on good roads, going through small towns and landscapes loaded with Mayan ruins, many still undiscovered. Enroute is the town of Sacaluum, a pueblo with an imposing Church set up on a hill in the middle of town. Noteworthy is the make shift bull ring at the bottom of the hill, built with local trees and branches, looking as though the fencing could barely hold up to a charging dog, let alone a menacing bull.

Old and modern houses are seeing all over Ticul.

This is the main facade of the Church. As mass lets out, a cornucopia of colors floods your senses, the most striking being the Mayan women in their elaborately woven traditional dresses and garb. People of all ages, spring through the open doors and mingle on the lawn, catching up on the latest gossip or recipe. What few men there are, stand around with that timeless expression on their faces of get me outta here, I’m bored and I have better things to be doing.

Now, let's admire some of the Mayan Deities . Ah Puch (Yum Cimil) ,god of death and destruction, brought disease and was associated with war. Chac is the god of rain. Cizin (Kisin) is the god of death, linked with earthquakes .Hun-Hunahpú (Ah Mun) is hte god of maize and vegetation. Hunahpú and Xbalanqúe are the twin sons of Hun-Hunahpú, tricked the lords of the underworld Itzamná, the ruler of heaven, of night and day, and of the other deities. Ixchel, the goddess of fertility, pregnancy, and childbirth was also there, as well as Kinich Ahau, the god of the sun and sometimes considered an aspect of Itzamná.

While we were meeting all these gods, the mass continued. Within thirty minutes, the bicycles, motor bikes, Mayan Limo’s, and what few cars were there, have emptied the majority of the church goers, with the ones remaining hanging in the plaza or indulging in an ice cream, destined to be eaten immediately or worn home on ones Sunday attire.

Sunday is an excellent time to visit, as practically the whole town can be found in and around the Convent. As well as the church (Convent), there’s a large open air square (plaza) with people of all ages mingling around, while men with their three wheel bicycles,(Mayan Limousines’) eagerly await the mass exit from church, knowing that later on their legs will be tired but their pockets full of pesos. Every intersection within a two block radius has a Mayan deity, proudly standing guard, reminding one of their ancient ancestors and to maintain respect for the old. These beautifully made statuesque ceramic replicas of the Mayan gods are a sight to behold, and interestingly they are pretty much scratch free. This town is known for making the deities, using the exact methods employed more than a thousand years ago.

A Sunday in Ticul, observing the intermingling of an advanced ancient Mayan culture with its contemporary Catholicism, opens the eyes to the vast cultural and religious differences that still exist, and also coexist in a peaceful tradeoff with the Gods. Ticul is part of Route Puuc and the Convent Route, found near the caves of Lol Tun, a Mayan city of Uxmal Yaxnic Caves and cenotes Uayalce, among other things. Ticul is also well known for making shoes and leather garments.

Bill Milligan and Yndiana thank SEFOTUR by Ticul transportation from the city of Merida, and the Presidente Intercontinental Hotel and Maison Laffite for their stay.
ENDS