MASS WITH THE MAYANS...SUNDAY IN TICUL

Leaving Merida (Yucatan) on a hot and steamy October day, were driving south out of the city heading to a somewhat remote town of Ticul. Located 82 kilometers from Merida, it’s principally known for it’s locally made shoes, leather goods, a large Ex-Convent, which now serves as a Catholic church and it’s excellent collection of Mayan deities, found dotting the periphery of the church.

People leaving the Church after Sunday Mass

The trip from Merida takes approximately one and a half hours , is an easy drive through flat shrub jungle on good roads, going through small towns and landscapes loaded with Mayan ruins, many still undiscovered. Enroute is the town of Sacaluum, a pueblo with an imposing Church set up on a hill in the middle of town. Noteworthy is the make shift bull ring at the bottom of the hill, built with local trees and branches, looking as though the fencing could barely hold up to a charging dog, let alone a menacing bull.

Old and modern houses are seeing all over Ticul.

This is the main facade of the Church. As mass lets out, a cornucopia of colors floods your senses, the most striking being the Mayan women in their elaborately woven traditional dresses and garb. People of all ages, spring through the open doors and mingle on the lawn, catching up on the latest gossip or recipe. What few men there are, stand around with that timeless expression on their faces of get me outta here, I’m bored and I have better things to be doing.

Now, let's admire some of the Mayan Deities . Ah Puch (Yum Cimil) ,god of death and destruction, brought disease and was associated with war. Chac is the god of rain. Cizin (Kisin) is the god of death, linked with earthquakes .Hun-Hunahpú (Ah Mun) is hte god of maize and vegetation. Hunahpú and Xbalanqúe are the twin sons of Hun-Hunahpú, tricked the lords of the underworld Itzamná, the ruler of heaven, of night and day, and of the other deities. Ixchel, the goddess of fertility, pregnancy, and childbirth was also there, as well as Kinich Ahau, the god of the sun and sometimes considered an aspect of Itzamná.

While we were meeting all these gods, the mass continued. Within thirty minutes, the bicycles, motor bikes, Mayan Limo’s, and what few cars were there, have emptied the majority of the church goers, with the ones remaining hanging in the plaza or indulging in an ice cream, destined to be eaten immediately or worn home on ones Sunday attire.

Sunday is an excellent time to visit, as practically the whole town can be found in and around the Convent. As well as the church (Convent), there’s a large open air square (plaza) with people of all ages mingling around, while men with their three wheel bicycles,(Mayan Limousines’) eagerly await the mass exit from church, knowing that later on their legs will be tired but their pockets full of pesos. Every intersection within a two block radius has a Mayan deity, proudly standing guard, reminding one of their ancient ancestors and to maintain respect for the old. These beautifully made statuesque ceramic replicas of the Mayan gods are a sight to behold, and interestingly they are pretty much scratch free. This town is known for making the deities, using the exact methods employed more than a thousand years ago.

A Sunday in Ticul, observing the intermingling of an advanced ancient Mayan culture with its contemporary Catholicism, opens the eyes to the vast cultural and religious differences that still exist, and also coexist in a peaceful tradeoff with the Gods. Ticul is part of Route Puuc and the Convent Route, found near the caves of Lol Tun, a Mayan city of Uxmal Yaxnic Caves and cenotes Uayalce, among other things. Ticul is also well known for making shoes and leather garments.

Bill Milligan and Yndiana thank SEFOTUR by Ticul transportation from the city of Merida, and the Presidente Intercontinental Hotel and Maison Laffite for their stay.
ENDS

TULUM PART TWO: CHARMING HOTEL & SPA ANA Y JOSE

After Ocho Tulum , leaving that beautiful strip of white sand and sun was difficult, but, we had to move on. Our next stop was Ana y Jose’s Charming Hotel & Spa, just a short distance from each other. Between checking in and out, we had time to take in the glorious sunset at Zebra bar with friends, and indulge in a cold margarita and cervezas. The salsa rhythms floated over the beach front, as patrons swayed to the music and the afternoon sun gently began its daily descent.


Reaching Ana y Jose’s, we were met by a very accommodating and pleasant Argentinean, who showed us the grounds and cabins, along with a brief history of the owners. We immediately felt at home and comfortable in this laid back setting. Kicking off the shoes, we headed for our room, a second floor, ocean facing suite that allowed all of the beauty and warmth of the Mexican Caribbean to engulf us. Initial inspection of the room, revealed a sunning deck with comfortable chairs, sliding glass doors, that opened to a king size bed, small breakfast nook, closets and well appointed shower, with natural soaps, shampoos, and creams. All rooms are provided with an expresso machine, which worked very well, giving a nice, thick crema. All rooms are practically laid out, with a simple but sophisticated design, allowing one to enjoy all of the intrinsic natural wonders. There are twenty-three rooms, all air conditioned, with safety deposit boxes, ceiling fans, mini-bar, and great views, whether near the swimming pool or overlooking the ocean. An open, large palapa restaurant, invites one for a snack, dinner, or drinks, or just smoozing with friends.

The cuisine was regional and very well done, with appropriately attentive service. One always felt ready to head to the restaurant for snacks and beer, and afterwards, a delightful walk on the beach, taking in the cooling ocean breezes and happy feet shuffling through the warm, turquoise waters. After a slow leisurely walk, one can return and indulge in corporal delights with a variety of therapeutic treatments, whether it is Deep tissue, Maya, or Stone massage, Reiki or Tropical Papaya Hydrating sessions. A five day stay at Anna y Jose’s is the antidote for our stressful living, and will ensure warm, nostalgic memories, coaxing the subconscious to keep reminding the consciousness that there is a better place, and a better way…

TULUM PART ONE

TULUM, AN ESCAPE TO TRANQUILITY
By Bill Milligan and Yndiana Montes
Photos: Bill Milligan
www.solocaribe.com

Traveling south out of Cancun, on what is now known as the Rivera Maya, one parallels the beautiful Mexican Caribbean, and one and a half hours later, enters the town of Tulum. This enchanted town, formerly known as Zama (city of dawn) was used by the Mayans as a commercial port for Coba and surrounding areas. Tulum can be divided into the town itself, the archaeological site and the beachfront area, dotted with rustic boutique hotels, with the tourquoise waters as their front door and mangrove swamps and shrub jungle to their rear. Its location is now an easy drive from Cancun on a four lane well maintained highway. Continuing on the main highway (Carretera Federal), heading south, one enters the bioreserve called Sian Ka’an, with its own ruins, beautiful lagoons and jungle.





Sian Ka’an is now dedicated to preserving its inherent beauty and biodiversity, limiting tourist access to minimize environmental impact. Tours are operated daily by different groups, of which we used “Community Tours, Sian Ka’an”, a group of local Mayans, bilingual and historically knowledgeable, especially dedicated to this area. Small boats shuttle tourists across the lagoons into water canals, dug out over a thousand years ago, where one can float with life preservers down these twenty foot wide canals, where Mayan commerce was once was at its height. A gentle current carries you for approximately one hour, along this ancient, warm watered swim back into Mayan history. After the tour everyone returns to shore for a beautifully prepared Mayan lunch, with a most hospitable staff.
Returning to Tulum (20 minute drive), you enter the town proper along the main highway, and a right hand turn leads to the bucolic and bohemian boutique hotels that dot the pristine coast. There are around forty hotels, the majority with solar and wind generated electricity, again limiting environmental impact to this ancient area. The drive along this narrow, two lane road, parallels the Caribbean, with palms and shrub jungle on both sides, as you weave your way down what was once a dirt and pot holed path. Once you step out of your car, the shoes come off, the shirt unbuttons, and your nostrils open to the pure and slightly salty air, that baths your body and sends that pent up energy straight down to the fine white grained sand, where stood an advanced culture more than a thousand years ago. Your first walk along the soft sanded, white beaches, with the turquoise waters lapping at your feet, transports you to another world, inhabited by the gentle sounds of water, vast open skies, warm nurturing sun and a tranquility of mind that one rarely encounters. Your have arrived at a destination designed for calming body, mind and soul.



Continuing our beach walk, we pass one boutique hotel after another, we stop to talk with Ramiro Pacheco, an Argentinian born energy worker who also works in Tulum . He and his wife and three kids have lived in the area for ten years, under austere conditions, utilizing a generator for basic electrical services. Acclimation of the adults was much easier than for the kids, but they are still adjusting to living in the jungle neighborhood. Ramiro is well known locally and in Cancun, for his energy work and massages, with clients driving several hours for an appointment.

MERIDA'S HUARACHAS

MERIDA'S HUARACHAS Text and photos: Bill & Yndie

http://www.solocaribe.com/

The story takes us back to 1542 when "El Mozo" as he was nicknamed, Francisco de Montejo founded Merida, a Spanish colonial city that exudes tradition in its streets, plazas and avenues, which belies its cosmopolitan reality. Its reputation of peace and serenity has led many Mexicans to move there, looking for the security long lost in the major cities. Not only Mexicans but also Europeans and Americans seeking something more than sun, sea and sand, are beginning to gravitate to this enchanted city, captivated by its nightlife, theater, cinema, street performers, restaurants, and people watching. Being a university town, keeps a younger spirit, intermixed with locals, expatriates, businessmen and outlying Indians dressed in their traditional garb, selling their wares on the streets and plazas. Merida is also well known for its textiles, leather and handicrafts, which are very reasonably priced, due to it's being off the tourist route. This is an old, well kept, clean and lovely city, which has something for everyone, and deserves at least a three day stay, especially on a Sunday, to get to know it better.

That's why, every year possible, Bill Milligan M.D. returns to this city with his huaraches, seeking the perfect shine, only to be found in the main plaza, with its variety of shoe shine boys and men. His latest pair of huaraches was bought on his previous trip in February of this year, while attending Merida's five day carnival. Since that time he hasn't had a shine. He loves his huaraches and they have become his summer and spring favorites, as he says, their simplicity, soft leather and comfort, become a natural extension of his feet, whether walking short or long distances, around the house or outside working in the yard. The soles are made of old, thick tire treads, which last forever, and the uppers, of soft, pliable leather, that molds to the foot and allows the environment to flow through, cooling and massaging the foot. Were it not for the cold weather, he would live in them year around.

At times he sounds like a tour guide for Merida, obviously in love with this city, and enjoying his return to "center city", reminding him of previously living in Philadelphia, and now living in downtown Wilmington, North Carolina. His previous carnival trip here, he describes as civilized and both adult and family oriented, which he viewed from the balcony of his hotel, overlooking the carnival route, while enjoying a glass of vino. He was "hooked" on Merida after his last trip, thinking of what it would be like to own a center city, Spanish courtyard type of house, perhaps converting it to a wine bar with local artists decorating the massive interior courtyard walls with their indigenous and more sophisticated pieces of art. He's a dreamer, but a realist, and has seen many previous dreams come to fruition with time.

The culinary delights of this city are impressive, with regional Mayan dishes predominating, but tucked away are special jewels, of which our favorite was Amaro, serving a combination of regional and vegetarian dishes in a large courtyard, under a huge hundred year old tree, while listening to a guitarist sing beautiful Cuban ballads. This became our respite from the outside and sometimes noisy city. Once you walk through the ancient wooden doors and take that first sip of vino, you are transported to another time, limited only by your imagination. Restaurant Amaro, was an eighteenth century mansion, where Andres Quintana Roo was born, a journalist, poet and dreamer, and where his spirit still lingers in that courtyard. He became an Ambassador and congressman with a devout social sensitivity, which eventually led to the southern part of the Yucatan, being named after him.

Two vinos later we exited those ancient walls and headed for the main plaza, with one thing in mind, ShoeShine, shoeshine and shoeshine. We weren't disappointed, as the plaza was full of people, activity, and shoeshiners. Now came the hard part, which one could take on the task of lovingly clean, rehydrate and shine my most coveted pair of shoes. Finding the right person requires the analytical mind to step aside and permit the right brain to intuit the correct path, which occurred within minutes of entering the plaza. Even haggling over the price was avoided, as he knew he would get the "gringo fee", but it was OK. Twenty pesos seemed a fair price, the equivalent of one dollar and sixty cents, and it was settled.

As he sat back in the chair on that beautiful, sunny day, in that lovely tree lined plaza, I knew everything would be fine. Dialogue was minimal, he knew he had a task in front of him, and here sat a foreigner with a Latina, which was probably a bit discombobulating for him, but it would all be over in a matter of fifteen or twenty minutes and he would be putting a twenty peso bill in his pocket. As he began cleaning one shoe, it was evident that he was serious about his work, rarely looking up, even when hit with mundane questioning.

Stepping down off the chair, it was obviously one of the best shoe shines he had ever had in Mexico. That sense of guilt about not taking care of my huaraches was now gone, and he felt relief, at least for the present, before he started putting them through the everyday grind again. Now it was time to enjoy the delights of the plaza and its people.

All over the plaza, activity was buzzing, from the vendors with their small stands, selling handmade jewelry, purses and clothing, to the taco stands with their mixture of aromas, beckoning one to step closer for further gustatory inspection. All ages, sizes, shapes, and colors were represented, many with traditional Indian garb from their respective villages, each unique in its own way. Classical music could be heard coming from a remote area of the square, which was the Friday afternoon special, presented by the local orchestra. Looking across the square, one could see them, all in starched uniforms, seated underneath one of the large arches of a government building. Another small group, with men in all white garb and women in beautifully embroidery dresses were wandering around the plaza, playing folkloric music and dancing from Oaxaca. This was a special group, specially trained in regional music and dance, which came from Mexico City as a cultural exchange program with Merida. After strolling through the plaza, we headed for the sorbet café, located outside and underneath one of the grand arches, where we indulged in a mango sorbet and double espresso.

The main plaza in Merida, built by the Spaniards, houses a magnificent Cathedral, the oldest in Latin America, along with an imposing two story governmental building, the Palacio municipal, which occupies one complete side of the plaza. Lovers chairs are sprinkled around the interior of the plaza, where young and old alike, sit facing each other but separated physically by a concrete arm, which insures minimal touch, in case the chaperones attention has been diverted. This is a place for one to go sit, relax, walk; people watch or play, if of the appropriate age. There is a civility here, which is accepted by all, and makes this a very special place for people to congregate. Merida has all the trappings of a bustling little city, whether it be a new and imposing Theatre, an old and prestigious University in downtown, an up and coming art district, impressive museums, numerous café and espresso bars, restaurants of all varieties, art galleries, major department stores (Sears, Liverpool, Homedepot,etc.), and a fine cigar and wine bar. It has a bit of everything for everyone and surely deserves a stay, making sure a Sunday is included, as streets are closed, traffic diverted, and pedestrians and bicycle riders take to the streets. And when tired of the urban life, take to the highways, as the surrounding terrain extending from Merida outwards for a one to two hour journey, is loaded with interesting towns and ruins, many still undiscovered, and lovely people who complete this archaic journey back to pre-Columbian times.

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Bill & Yndie thank SEFOTUR for their support on this trip. Also Maison Lafitte and Hotel Intercontinental Presidente for their stay; as well as Turistransmerida for their transportation from Merida to Chichen Itza.

Amaro Restaurant: Calle 69 by 60 and 62. Centro Histórico, Merida.